Before and After |
Yellowed and Water Stained Back Panels |
Looking back, the task was far more tedious than I originally thought it would be, but this is partly due to my own obsessiveness. I wanted the panels to be perfect, so I took my time. I not only primed and painted the panels, but I also sanded and painted all of the fasteners and screws. But in the end, it was worth it. My panels look brand new.
If you're planning on refurbishing the panels, I also suggest that you be patient and allot a chunk of time to do the project. The majority of time is spent in waiting for the paint to dry, and more importantly, to bond with the plastic.I waited 24hrs between coats, including primer.
Needed Supplies |
Here's what I used:
- Flat head & Phillips head screwdrivers
- Steel Wire brush
- Brillow Brush
- Spray Paint
- 1 can of grey primer for plastic
- 1 can of grey paint for plastic
- 1 can of flat black for plastic
- 1 can of black gloss for metal
- Lemon Juice
- Baking Soda
- Glass jar
Removal:
First I removed the panel doors from panels. Then, using a flat head screwdriver, I pushed it between the panel and the truck and gently pried the plastic fasteners loose. The key is to work gently as the plastic is 20 plus years old and can be brittle. Removing the fasteners is pretty straight forward. I had to loosen some of the fasteners to the middle panel in order to slide the rear panel loose, but the process is pretty straight forward. The wires for the light on the driver's side panel are easily disconnected.Removing Metal Tabs |
I marked the location of the tabs on the back of the panel for ease when reassembling.
Rear Light Fixture |
I also removed the light and hardware from the driver's side panel and unscrewed the knobs that lock the panel doors.
Finally, I rubber-banded plastic bags around the rear speakers to protect them from dirt or rain now that they were fully exposed.
Prepping:
I used the Brillo scrub pad pictured above and dish detergent and scrubbed the panels and plastic fasteners violently to remove the dirt and oil residue from years of driving without the top on. I washed and scrubbed each panel twice to make sure no dirt or oil residue was left behind to ensure the paint bonded to the plastic.Homemade Rust Removal |
To remove the old paint and rust, I used a home rust remover formula: lemon juice and baking soda. I mixed the two in a glass jar forming a wet paste (a little more watery than toothpaste) then threw in the hardware, mixed it well, and let it sit overnight. The paste removed much of the rust, but I also scrubbed each piece with a wire brush to remove particles and leftover paint. This was one of the more tedious aspects of the job, one that could easily be skipped to save time if the screws and nuts are in good condition.
Painting:
Painted Metal Hardware |
Panel Door Latch |
Un-Primed vs. Primed |
Panel Buttons Ready for Painting |
After the first coat of paint, I noticed some parts of the panel looked 'glossy' and other parts a little flat. Not sure why. Maybe they needed a second coat of primer, but since I had already given them a coat of paint, I decided just to give them a second coat, waiting a day between.
Deck Lamp:
Deck lamp: taped, primed, and painted |
The Rust-Oleum paint can says that full adhesion to plastic takes 5-7 days, so I waited a full week before I reinstalled the panels. After painting the rear side panels, I knew they were looking good, but the full affect of how well they turned out didn't hit until I had put them back in the struck. The panels look amazing. The transformation is stunning.
Finished Product! rear panel, driver's side |
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